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Once upon a time, Scotland was shunned for culinary inclinations. Casting aside the tremendous produce within arms reach, deep-fried Mars Bars and off-brand Haggis were the twin pillars of Caledonian food. Frankly, it was a travesty. Thankfully, those days are long gone, and every corner of Scotland now boasts world-class eateries celebrating the vibrance of its local ingredients. No place here is better for foodies than the capital city, however. Here, finding the best restaurants in Edinburgh is an easy target.
From casual seafood bites mere feet from the source to spectacular highland game, Auld Reekie will linger on your tastebuds long after you leave.
Kora
Location: Bruntsfield
Price: $$$
What to get: Hand-dived scallops and the seasonal game dish
The rundown: Much-lauded local chef Tim Kitchin has transformed Edinburgh into his culinary playground over the past few years. From his high-end tasting restaurant in Leith to his casual pub eatery in New Town, he’s set an enviable standard at every price point.
Kora, his latest offering, is an all-out celebration of Scottish produce. A generously extensive menu makes choosing difficult, but rest easy knowing it’ll be excellent. The hand-dived scallops, spectacularly presented in-shell, are divine, and the seasonal Silka Deer ranks in writer Steven’s top five dishes of all time.
Take the waitstaff at their word on wine and cocktails. They blew Steven’s mind after pulling out a bottle of Georgian wine (country, not the state) he’d been searching for for two years.
The Little Chartroom
Location: Leith
Price: $$$
What to get: Anything on the set lunch menu
The rundown: The Little Chartroom is a humble little Leith restaurant run by chef-owner Roberta Hall-McCarron. Don’t be fooled by the understated menu descriptions; you can expect elegant, locally sourced dishes and some excellent wine pairings to boot.
Go for a relaxed set lunch. Its set menu is only £35 for three courses—astounding value for the quality of food on show,
Fortitude Coffee
Location: Multiple locations
Price: $$
What to get: Your brew of choice and the cake of the day
The rundown: Fortitude holds dominion over the Edinburgh coffee scene. There’s a fair chance you’ll be tasting their beans in a number of independent coffee shops in the capital but go straight to the source for yours.
Take your time, though. Grab a slice of whatever their cake of the day is. They’re baked fresh every morning, destroying even the most well-intentioned diet efforts. If you’re lucky, it’ll be their coffee and walnut one.
The Fishmarket
Location: Newhaven
Price: $$
What to get: Fish and chips
The rundown: There are fish n’ chips and fish n’ chips. This is the latter.
The Fishmarket was initially founded as just that. Over the decades, it evolved, and while it’s still flogging the catch of the day next door, it’s the chippy you should be seeking out.
A familiar name in the endless argument of the best fish and chips in the country, there are few better places to try the Scottish people’s (and the rest of the UK) go-to seaside dish. Opt for breaded haddock, but grab a few pieces of the monkfish if you’re feeling greedy. They typically have a few local beers on draft to wash it down, so grab a to-go cup, find a space on the dock, and tuck in.
El Cartel
Location: Multiple locations
Price: $$
What to get: The whole menu, but the Al Pastor wings are special
The rundown: Sure, Mexican food might not be on your agenda in Scotland, but after tasting El Cartel’s take on the traditional taco, you won’t care.
Wonderfully playful, deliciously vibrant, and tequila tinged, grab one of everything on the menu. The tacos are unique, but the Al Pastor chicken wings steal the show, perfectly simulating the CDMX staple. And the seasonal margs are out of this world—writer Steven visited in January and tried a spiced pear one. He’s never been the same.
Number One
Location: Princes Street, Edinburgh
Price: $$$$$
What to get: The full-tasting menu
The rundown: Michelin-starred Number One is a culinary experience luxurious enough to match the hotel it’s housed in.
The seven-course chef’s tasting menu is a journey through Scotland’s produce. Scallops caught fresh from the North Sea, Roe Deer from highland estates, and seasonal asparagus grown in Scottish soil are just a few of the touching points for an unforgettable meal. It’s a splurge, but it’s worth it. Head upstairs for a dram of whisky at SCOTCH when you’re done.
Bonnie and Wild
Location: New Town
Price: $-$$$
What to get: Whatever catches your eye
The rundown: The perfect place for a group that can’t decide what to eat. Bonnie and Wild is a food hall in Edinburgh’s New Town boasting everything from the UK’s best burger to Sri Lankan curries. Just walk in, grab a table, order one of the tapped cocktails, and stroll around until something delicious catches your eye. Don’t leave without trying the ice cream.
Wildly, the space even holds its own Ceilidhs once a month. These are traditional Scottish dances that always end up a complete riot. If you time your visit well, it’d be an excellent opportunity to delve more into the culture.
Alby’s
Location: Leith
Price: $-$$
What to get: Chicken pakora and garlic pickle sandwich
The rundown: Sometimes, a sandwich is all that will hit the spot. Luckily, Alby’s is legendary in Edinburgh. The bread is sliced ludicrously thick, and the hot fillings fill a space in your soul reserved for only the purest of life experiences.
That may seem excessive, but wait till you bite into a Thai fishcake slathered with tom yum mayo.
You’re welcome.