Despite being the most visited city in South America, Buenos Aires isn’t a traditional tourist destination packed with attractions to tick off. The joy of the city is in the exploration and atmosphere—and that’s never better experienced than in its eateries.
Boasting a world-class culinary scene second only to Lima’s in South America, it’s home to the best steakhouse in the world, life-changing ice cream, and its own controversial take on pizza. There’s plenty to dig your teeth into in the Argentine capital.
While finding the best places to eat in Buenos Aires should be a personal endeavor, let me offer you a gentle nudge in the direction of some of the best places to eat in Buenos Aires—all tasted, tested, and approved by me.
Also, assume dulce de leche is on all the menus in some form, and it’s a legal requirement you must have it.
Don Julio
Location: Calle Guatemala
Price: $$-$$$
What to get: The recommended cut of the day
The rundown: Currently the 14th-best restaurant in the world and the highest-ranked steakhouse, Don Julio is a Buenos Aires institution.
Housed in a stunning 19th-century building, eating here is an experience in itself. Don Julio sources all its beef from locally reared Aberdeen Angus and Hereford cattle and serves with the intention of celebrating steak at its simplest. Ask your waiter for recommendations on cuts and wine (they’ve got over 14,000 Argentine labels in the basement cellar).
Bookings fill up weeks in advance, but a number of walk-in places are available every night. Turn up around 7pm, and you should be able to get a table. Don’t worry about a long wait; to help bide your time, waiters regularly swing past with champagne and empanadas. Just don’t go overboard—you want to experience how good this place is.
Peron Peron
Location: Lavalleja, BA
Price: $$-$$$
What to get: All the empanadas and Pastel de papas
The rundown: Peron Peron provides both excellent food and a unique experience. Part restaurant, part shrine to the former Argentine leader and his wife, Eva, your meal will be punctuated with sudden outbursts of the Peronist March, the anthem of his supporters. Despite being a heavily divisive authoritarian leader at times, the late Peron still garners passionate followers hoping to continue his politics. It makes for an interesting insight into local politics.
As for the food, expect a selection of Argentine classics. The empanadas are sublime, and the pastel de papas (basically shepherd’s pie) is wonderful. It’s said to have been Peron’s favorite dish. The restaurant is a must.
Pizzería Güerrín
Location: Theatre District
Price: $$-$$$
What to get: Fugazzeta
The rundown: At the turn of the 20th century, over two million Italians migrated to Buenos Aires, imparting, among other things, their love of pizza. Over the years, the city has developed its own style. The pizza bases are al molde, a uniquely thick, spongy crust that remains soft after cooking. From there, it’s layered with absurd amounts of cheese, almost impossible to eat with your hands.
Pizzeria Güerrín is the best place to try it out. The Fugazzeta is a particularly interesting style, with no sauce but buckets of cheese and onions. It’s divisive with tourists but worth a try. If it’s not for you, don’t worry. There are plenty of other pizza places serving your tried and true pies.
Chori
Location: Multiple locations
Price: $
What to get: Choripan
The rundown: Choripan is a street food staple in Argentina and other parts of South America. The name of this humble sandwich comes from the Spanish word “chorizo” and “pan—literally sausage bread.
You’ll see Choripans offered all over the city, but Chori is garnering a reputation for itself as one of the best. Start with the basic sandwich on your first visit, but return for some of their more creative takes, like their chorichanga with pineapple honey, pickled jalapeno, and soy creole.
Cucina Paradiso
Location: Arevalo
Price: $$-$$$
What to get: Whatever is fresh
The rundown: Another Italian gift, Cucina Paradiso is renowned in the city for its handmade pasta. Operating as both a quaint restaurant and market, the Palermo location dishes out stunning food to order. They don’t take reservations, so just hang out a while and you’ll find a streetside seat.
On one of my visits, the pappardelle with braised lamb was unbelievable. I’ve never tried to eat a dish as slowly as that. Well worth a visit.
Salvaje Bakery
Location: Avenida Dorrego
Price: $-$$
What to get: Any of their loaves, or their chocolate pastries
The rundown: Salvaje is a humble bakery, but it’s good enough to stand with some of the best in Europe. Its bread is astonishing, its pastries are delectable, and its little lunch and breakfast menus are a delight. Even its coffee is brilliant.
If you’re lucky enough to be nearby like I was, it’ll be your first stop every morning. I still think of their pain au chocolat. I’ve never had better. Even in France. Come at me.
Nola
Location: Gorriti
Price: $$-$$$
What to get: Any of the fried chicken sandwiches
The rundown: Buenos Aires probably isn’t the first place you’d think of for Cajun food, but American-owned Nola knocks it out of the park for a shift in culinary pace. It was originally founded as a small-group supper club by an ex-pat, but its popularity built it into a gastropub.
You’ll find the usual Louisiana-style dishes on the menu, along with some outstanding local craft beer, but the fried chicken sandwiches steal the show. If you’re in Buenos Aires long enough, you’ll be back for more.
Heladería Scannapieco
Location: Palermo
Price: $$
What to get: Dulce de leche, but sample everything
The rundown: I’m going to say it, and I don’t take this lightly. Heladeria Scannapieco is the greatest ice cream shop on the planet.
In a city that takes its ice cream seriously, Scannapieco is tremendous. In business since the 30s, the family-run shop has a ridiculous number of flavors that defy belief. Impossibly smooth, exploding with flavor, and amazing service to boot. You’ll be buying by the quart.
I’ll return to Buenos Aires for the sole purpose of eating ice cream here again.
by travelers, for travelers.
